KEY INGREDIENTS | Retinol
Every time I do an Instagram Q&A, there’s always loads of questions on retinol, I have never come across a skincare ingredient that causes so much confusion and trepidation, though I completely get why - the volume of information (and misinformation!) about it is a lot, the amount of products available is a lot, the different types of retinol is a lot - everything about retinol is a lot! In fact, is it even called retinol?
I’m not trying to turn up the volume, but rather I’m going to quieten the noise so you can focus only on the most important details.
What’s it actually called?
The proper term is Retinoid, but you’ll hear many people - professionals, journalists, beauty industry folk say Retinol, which (I was going to be finickity) is incorrect, because the truth is Retinol is only one type of Retinoid amongst many. Retinoids are sometimes also called Vitamin A, that’s all good too.
The main types of Retinoids you’ll find available in the shops are:
Retinol
Retinaldeyhde
I also have a soft spot for Granactive Retinoids, Ethyl Lactyl Retinoate and Retinyl Retinoate. They are more new age and deliver good results too.
Why is it important in skincare and what does it do?
We love to say that Retinoids are a gold standard ingredient - they are the head honcho because they can effect significant change and improvement in the condition of the skin, hence they are also available as prescription medicine.
As an ingredient category it is a true workhorse helping to do the following:
Stimulate collagen to create stronger and bouncier skin
Minimise the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
Fade discolouration and dark marks
Improve exfoliation so the skin is smoother and able to absorb active ingredients better
Boost natural moisture levels in the skin
Regulate bacterial load on the skin which is key if you have acne or prone to breakouts
Does Black Skin need special Retinoids?
No.
How do I use it?
I always advice to the step up approach use - for the first few weeks, start twice a week, leaving a few days in between. After that, move o to three times a week for another few weeks, then step up to four times a week.
You don’t have to use your Retinoid everyday, and that’s ok. I just like you to get to a point were you are consistently using it at least four times a week. How long it takes you to get to this point is of no concern. It’s a marathon, not a sprint.
Also…
How not to use it?
When you first start using Retinoids, the last thing you want to do is slap it on, all over your face every night. The way your skin will clap back (irritated, sensitive, sore, rash, hyperpigmentation) …..always remember it’s slow and steady for success.
However, if you did get over zealous with your application and your skin gets unhappy, just stop using it and focus on soothing and hydrating skincare until your skin recovers.
What else do I need to do if I’m using Retinoids?
Wear sunscreen religiously, hats and sunglasses are also a good idea.
Keep a close eye on your use of other active ingredients such as exfoliating acids. Some peoples skin can tolerate tandem use, but if that’s not you, it’s ok.
When should I start using a Retinoid?
Mid 20’s upwards.
Remember, there’s a Retinoid for everyone!
Do I need to use a Retinoid in my skincare?
No, you don’t. It’s beneficial to use if you’re concerned about the signs of premature ageing, but there are other types of ingredients like the Hydroxy Acid family and products that will deliver some of the same results, albeit slower and maybe not as longer lasting.
Is there a difference between Retinoids you can buy on the high street and clinic retinoids?
Both are classed as over the counter but cost is a major difference for starters, but potency and technology can make a big difference. Retinoids that are available in-clinic tend to have something called time release encapsulation. This means that because of the way they delivered into the skin, they are able to work at a deeper level and irritation is reduced.
There is nothing wrong with starting with a high street retinoid, so many good options about. However, as you continue on your skin health journey, you may want to consider in-clinic Retinoids for more action.
What is Tret? Do I need to use it? Everyone is using it…
So if everyone jumped into a fire, you’d follow them?
Tret short for Tretinoin is also a type of Retinoid available on prescription because it is so strong, it is a medicine needing supervised use. I personally don’t like for everyone to be using Tret, unless they have a diagnosed medical need for it e.g. Acne. Then me and you are cool.
Which leads me on to the other issue - a lot of people think they have acne when they don’t. They have spots, which are a very normal thing to get but the internet massive will tell them its full blown acne, so of course human nature - you want to do the most - so you head straight for Tret. Wrong move.
You don’t need to use Tret just for you to be using a Retinoid, the over the counter versions do an amazing job to maintain skin health.
I write about Retinoids extensively in my book BLACK SKIN and share some favourites, so grab a copy if you want to learn more.
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