Hyperpigmentation | All skin bright and beautiful
“As with all things, the cake taste better when all the ingredients come together. So look for pigmentation products that have more that two of these ingredients together.”
If I asked for a pound each time I answer a question about hyperpigmentation and dark marks, I would have retired ten times over. There are a few different causes of skin discolouration - ranging from hormonal to environmental. You can read more about causes over on my other site Black Skin Directory.
This post is specifically to talk about what you can do to both prevent and tackle hyperpigmentation and the types of skincare ingredients you should look out for.
Your hyperpigmentation busting to-do list:
The easiest, cheapest and best thing you can do for your hyperpigmentation is to invest in a good broad-spectrum UVA/UVB sunscreen that is a minimum SPF30. This will prevent future discolouration and prevent current hyperpigmentation from getting worse.
Secondly, your daily skincare should include a pigmentation evening serum. This is a must because if you want an even complexion, discolouration is something that must be tackled every day. Hyperpigmentation can occur at any time, especially on Black skin, so it’s best to stay on the defensive with a robust skincare plan that protects, inhibits and clears hyperpigmentation before and after it rears its bothersome self.
Lastly, include professional treatments in your skincare repertoire. Chemical peels, micro-needling and lasers are all suitable treatments to combat hyperpigmentation and deliver clearer skin. Professional treatments like we do at West Room Aesthetics boost exfoliation so that patches of pigmentation fade quicker, and they improve your skin’s healing processes so that discolouration doesn’t become a thing.
Ingredients you need TO KNOW:
Tyrosinase Inhibitors
The main ingredients in the skincare world that tackle discolouration are Tyrosinase Inhibitors. If we go into some skin science, Tyrosinase is one of the main components in melanin production, so if you can reduce or stop it all together, hyperpigmentation can be controlled.
For darker skin tones wanting to either maintain or achieve an even complexion, tyrosinase inhibitors is where the magic is at. I meet so many people who complain about hyperpigmentation yet have none of the below ingredients in their skincare. You will find them doing the most in your pigmentation serums and you must apply straight after cleansing for maximum effect. They are the difference between skin clarity and uneven skin tone. Book mark these ingredients:
Liquorice extract contains an active ingredient called glabridin and has the ability to treat hyperpigmentation resulting from sun damage and trauma to the skin. It is often seen as a natural skin-brightening alternative to hydroquinone.
Kojic acid comes from several different species of mushrooms that have the ability to limit the production of melanin in the skin. It is often found in skin- brightening products to combat hyperpigmentation, dark marks and scarring.
Transexamic acid is a manufactured version of the protein lysine that is widely used in medicine to prevent excess blood loss. In skincare, it’s shown to have beneficial skin-lightening and brightening effects, especially with conditions like melasma.
Alpha arburtin is an enhanced biosynthetic form of arbutin, which naturally comes from bearberry plants. Its main function in skincare is to brighten and even skin tone by interfering with the production of melanin.
Hexylresorcinol is found in the bran of rye and other cereals and has long been used in the food industry as an anti-browning agent for fresh produce like fruit and shrimps. Makes sense that it should also work in the skincare realm to prevent staining and browning of the skin. This is the Rolls-Royce of pigmentation ingredients.
Cysteamine has its origins in cysteine, which is a natural substance found in our bodies. It is actually an antioxidant that is also able to lighten discoloured skin. I love using it for really stubborn discolouration like melasma and long- term hyperpigmentation, which can be quite distressing. It really does make a difference, not only fading the pigmentation but also improving quality of life and self-esteem. Sadly, if you have a history of vitiligo in your family, or if you are pregnant/breastfeeding, you will not be able to use it.
“Other ingredients which also double up as tyrosinaise inhibitors are vitamin C, niacinamide and azelaic acid.”
Hydroquinone is a high-level, medical prescription-only skin-lightening ingredient that is used medically to brighten and even the skin tone. Its main function is to control and suppress melanin, to lighten darkened patches of skin or to prepare skin for further treatments. Due to its misuse for skin bleaching, this perfectly safe and medically approved ingredient has developed a poor reputation in Black and Asian communities. When used as prescribed with careful monitoring, it is one of the safest pigmentation evening ingredients.