Skincare, The 2023 Cut
What will the skincare landscape look like in 2023? Most of my 2022 predictions came true and some will continue well into next year and beyond. One thing that remains steadfast is that the quest for true skin health remains high and we will do everything we can for clear, plump and dewy skin.
I predict….
Multi faceted hybrid products are key
Given both the cost of living crisis and life generally getting very busy again, consumers want products that have multiple benefits and saves them time in their routine. e.g. cleansers that double up as deep cleansing masks, foundations with skincare benefits.
Short, sweet and powerful skincare
Skincare maximalism is so passé. Unless it’s a spa day with the girls, we don’t have time for ten step routines. We want to use the minimum amount of products that give maximum skin health benefits quickly.
Retinoid alternatives
Retinoids are typically touted as the all encompassing night time skin treatments, but what about people who can’t or don’t want to use them? That is where clever alpha hydroxy acids such as Azelaic Acid and Lactic Acid enter the chat. They may not have all the collagen stimulating benefits of retinoids but they deliver smooth, clear and blemish free skin. Three out of four ain’t bad!
Diversity and inclusivity will remain key concerns for brands and beauty education providers
How do they ensure that their offerings include people from varied ethnic backgrounds. The 2021 Census shows that the White population has decreased by 4.3% whilst every other ethnic group is on the rise - Asian is up by 1.8%, Black up by 0.7% and Mixed Heritage also up by 0.7%. Mixed ethnic households are up by 1.4%. How brands cater for, speak to and represent the population in their research, products, marketing and distribution are going to be under scrutiny and review. At a smaller scale, in clinic, even I have seen a rise in Mixed Heritage clients.
Lifestyle led skincare
Instead of skin being something we think about when it’s doing a naughty number, we will see more people making skincare part of their self care toolkit because there is a clear link between our mood and skin condition. We will see more consumers having an Esti on speed dial and prioritising monthly skincare in-clinic visits . We will also see a rise in skincare and beauty loyalty clubs like SKIN+, Harrods My Beauty and Liberty The Beauty Drop.
Skin barriers remain paramount
We remain obsessed with our skin barriers and this is because generally when it comes to skin, many people have short memories and are always curious to experiment with new skin care that can sometimes damage their skin barrier. I sound like a nagging aunty, but when you know what works for your skin - stick to it, stray at your peril.
A* for antioxidants
Chebula, Vitamin C, Niacinamide will continue to fly the flag for skincare ingredients that nurture, protect and strengthen the skin barrier. Chebula in particular is touted as the next big deal to stimulate collagen to fight fine lines and wrinkles; reduce inflammation and normalise pigmentation.
Clean beauty exits stage left (and about time too!)
We’ve always know that there’s no such thing as clean beauty, but somehow that camp came to town for a few years. The fact that ‘clean beauty’ doesn’t have a clear and legal definition made it difficult to understand. Did it mean - vegan? Went from soil to bottle? Ethical? Kind to the planet? Natural? We still don’t know but I am glad to see the back of brands that thrived on creating unnecessary fear amongst consumers. Education is the way forward.
Annoying skincare terminology
The clock app will continue to give us terms like slugging, skin cycling, skin-icing that we didn’t ask for. Basically reinvent new names for old procedures and we the skincare professionals are tired. Love and side-eye to partaking skincare pro’s, we see you and hope you will repent your ways. I jest (kinda), don’t come for me!
Menopause conversations
2022 was the year of the menopause and 2023 will see us continue to collectively discuss this important life event. Brands will continue to invest more into research for ingredients and product formulations that support the skin at this time, but also use this as a platform for consumer education and engagement. This year No 7 pushed the boat out with both a product line and extensive consumer events, even providing their England based staff with the opportunity to reclaim their NHS HRT prescription expenses.
Technology wilL thrive
Whether it be at home LED light devices, in-store handheld skin analysis gadgets or highly engineered products such as Shiseido’s expandable hyaluronic acid, technology will continue to drive skincare innovations.
Celebrity skincare lines
This year was eventful, at one point it felt like every celebrity and their dog was releasing a skincare line. The skincare market is over-saturated as it is, unless there is a really point of difference driven by science backed innovation, I would like to see the end of celebrity skincare lines.