EXFOLIATION, BUT MAKE IT ENZYMES
Enzymes in skincare are going to be big this year, I just have a feeling about them because it sometimes seems as if we’ve come to the end of the road with acids and people are either pulling back or wanting to explore other exfoliating options. I sit in both camps and easily flit between using enzymes and acids depending on the needs of my skin and that is generally the same type of advice I’d offer. Don’t make hard and fast rules, go with the flow.
That said, you cannot flow, if you don’t know what the options are, so what even is enzyme based skincare?
Well, they are a type of gentle exfoliant that dissolve old and dead skin cells at the surface of the skin (The science heads call them Proteolytic enzymes as they break down the protein bonds that hold cells together). Yes, I know acids do the same but the key difference is that enzymes aren’t strong enough to penetrate more than this surface dead layer so the living tissue underneath is pretty safe. Acids on the other hand can penetrate and go deeper into the skin in order to also have that stimulating action that helps to generate new skin cells.
Don’t sleep on Susanne, she does indulgent ‘take a moment’ skincare VERY well.
“Enzymes are akin to driving a reliable Fiat as opposed to a super-fast Ferrari. You do eventually arrive, just a little later.”
Typically, the enzymes used in skincare will come from papaya aka bromelain, pineapple aka papain, pomegranate, pumpkin and kiwi which don’t cause any irritation to the skin that can disrupt the natural barrier.
When should you use enzymes?
If your skin is particularly sensitive and doesn’t tolerate acids like lactic or glycolic acid well, then choose an enzyme as the basis of your exfoliation. I particularly like using an enzyme face wash or mask a few days after a chemical peel to help remove the excess dead skin cells on the surface of my skin. I’m not a fan of the dry peeling look that so many seem to enjoy viewing on social.
It’s still a good idea to be mindful of the frequency your use enzyme exfoliators, too much of a good thing isn’t always good for you and the same would be true here. Just because it’s gentler doesn’t mean you use every day - a couple of times a week is enough to maintain smooth and bright skin.
What will enzymes not do?
They aren’t the answer if you have oily and spot prone skin as they don’t do a great job tacking congesting or dissolving oil. You’ll still need a salicylic acid based product for that!
Also, I wouldn’t rely solely on enzyme based skincare to tackle concerns of discolouration or hyperpigmentation. That would be a very slow and possibly frustrating process.
Something to remember…
Also a good point to note is that enzymes can become ineffective very quickly if exposed to light and heat, so for goodness sake don’t leave on the bathroom sill. Don’t leave anything on the bathroom window sill, keep all your skincare somewhere cool and dark to keep them at their best.